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I know. I've already gone over aspect ratio. Maybe I'm just getting monotonous. Or, just maybe, some folks understand something better when explained in a different way. I mean, far be it from me to question the motives of my high-school math instructor's teaching methods.
I don't know about you, but I'm a "visual" learner. Always have been. You can give me the most eloquent explanation of how something is done but it will stick much better in my mind if it's shown to me. So, for those that are still confused about aspect ratio, I'm going to walk you through an example. Grab a cup of coffee, take a deep breath and keep reading...
Problem:
You've found a chainmaille pattern that you MUST try. The pattern calls for 20 gauge 2.5mm inner diameter rings. However, you - being the slightly more flamboyant being that you are, would much rather have it in 18 gauge wire. Simple, except - OH NO! The pattern never gives the aspect ratio!! Now what?!
Take comfort. We can find the aspect ratio with the information that we already DO know.
Now, 20 gauge wire (assuming we are going by American Wire Gauge measurements - and we are) is about .032 inches in diameter or, if you prefer, .81 millimeters. You can get the mm equivalent from the decimal inch measurement by multiplying the decimal inch measurement by 25.4(there are 25.4 millimeters in an inch):
.032 x 25.4 = .8128
Conversely, if you need to know the decimal inch measurement and only have the measurement in millimeters, then divide .8128 by 25.4:
.8128 / 25.4 = .032
Since the inner diameter of our pattern's rings is in millimeters, we'll use the metric measurement of our wire. We will take the .81mm of our 20 gauge wire and divide it into the inner diameter of the rings in our chainmaille pattern. So,
2.5mm (ring inner diameter) / .81mm (20 gauge wire diameter) = 3.0864197.
There you have it! The aspect ratio of the rings in your pattern is 3.09 (rounding up).
To find the inner diameter of your new rings in 18 gauge wire, take 18 gauge wire diameter (.040 decimal inch/1.02mm) and multiply it by the aspect ratio.
3.09 (aspect ratio) x 1.02mm (18 gauge mm thickness) = 3.15mm.
Your new 18 gauge rings should have an inner diameter of 3.15mm to make your chainmaille pattern.
To review:
- To get millimeter measurement from decimal inch measurement, multiply the decimal inch measurement by 25.4.
- To find the decimal inch measurement from millimeter measurement, divide the millimeter measurement by 25.4.
- There are 25.4 millimeters to an inch.
- Aspect ratio can be found by taking the ring inner diameter measurement and dividing it by the wire gauge thickness measurement of a pattern or chain you already have whereby you know at least the gauge of the wire and the inner diameter of the rings of said chain or pattern.
- Inner diameter measurement can be found by multiplying the aspect ratio by the wire gauge thickness measurement of the wire you intend to use.
Remember! Always wind a few rings and test them out first before winding up a large amount of your wire. Aspect ratios are in ranges, wire thicknesses vary slightly and sometimes a slightly smaller or slightly larger ring gives a better result.
If you still have questions, post a comment/question and I'll try to go over it again in another way.
Happy weaving!
Showing posts with label Tips. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tips. Show all posts
Tuesday, October 14, 2008
Thursday, October 9, 2008
Metal Mimicry
I'm sure no none needs reminding that we are in tough economic times. And while I still buy sterling silver, fine silver, yellow gold-filled and rose gold-filled wire when I can afford to (and while there are folks who can still afford to buy the finished product), I've taken to "faking" the look of these metals with more inexpensive alternatives so that my customers have more options. Here are my favorite "fakers"...
I don't know how many of you have tried plated wire. Do you actually like working with it? I hate working with it. I have various reasons for this, the biggest being that it's just so easy to scratch or chip it. The second biggest reason is that I've yet to make a piece without tumble polishing it, and plated materials don't take kindly to this. And the plastic (or "enameled") wires are so slippery in my pliers I get fed up before I can finish anything. For these reasons I don't use it. Good thing for us there are solid metal alternatives that look great!
____________________
The look of gold...
My personal favorite for imitating the look of gold is red brass (also called rich low brass or jeweler's brass). Unlike it's name would imply, it's not red, but a true gold color. The alloys can range anywhere from 70% copper/30% zinc to 90% copper/10% zinc (I use 85%/15%). Not being a metalurgist, I can only assume that the higher the copper content, the "warmer" the color.
Please do not confuse jeweler's brass with yellow brass. While yellow brass has a "gold" color, to my eye it looks decidedly greenish. I still like it for some things, but if what you want is something that looks like real gold, stick with jeweler's brass.
Rose gold beautiful...
Copper is one of my favorite metals. It's nearly-pink color pleases my eye. I suppose that's why I love rose gold so much too. However, the two don't even come close in color. I guess you could fool someone that's not really familiar with rose gold, but when holding the two next to each other the differences become immediately apparent. Copper is so much darker and pinker. They are so different that I don't even worry about mistaking these two. But there is one type of wire I have to label so that I don't confuse it with my rose gold-filled wire...
On a whim one day (and because I love to experiment), I decided to try bronze wire. The wire I received (Alloy C510, a phosphor bronze) was a light rosey-orange color. Hmmm. When I grabbed my rose gold wire to compare I was simply amazed! It was a eureka moment. The difference was only oh-so-slight. They have the same tonal (or lightness) values. The bronze is just a smidgeon more to the orange, but without really good lighting, it's nearly impossible to tell them apart. I had found my fabulous rose gold "faker"!
Ah, silver...
I've had an incredibly hard time trying to replicate this metal. It's white color is nearly unsurpassed. Nickel silver doesn't cut it, not even a little bit. Stainless steel? Ah, nope. But there's one that's pretty close...
Bright Aluminum is exceptionally white. It's also nice and shiny - two things that describe silver. Silver has a slight "warmth" to it while bright aluminum is brilliant white and "cold" (I'm talking colors here folks, not temperature). The bright aluminum is the closest I've been able to find and yet stay inexpensive. But there is one BIG difference between the two, and that's weight. The same size gauge and amount of rings of bright aluminum probably weighs less than half of the same in sterling silver. For those familiar with the heft of a silver bracelet or necklace, there's no mistaking that that bright aluminum one that you just picked up is NOT silver. Unfortunately, that's the trade-off for this fake. Replicate the color and sacrifice the weight. It's either that or go with nickel silver which looks like gunmetal next to the real thing.
Strange that the "colorless" metal would be the hardest to mimic...
____________________
Now, there ARE drawbacks to not using real gold or silver. Of course there are, or we would never use them! The non-precious metals tend to tarnish. Bright aluminum is pretty resistant, but brass and bronze will darken over time. The trick to keeping them nice is frequent cleanings and polishings with a jewelry cloth and to keep in an airtight bag when not in use. A small amount of work for a bigger reward.
I'm not by any means bashing other metals. In fact I used them - nickel silver, yellow brass and copper (especially copper). For instance, yellow brass looks fantastic with peridot or olive colored beads; the color of the beads picks up the greenish cast of the brass in a good way. Yellow brass also looks great with brown or terra cotta colors as it gives a nice "earthy" look. Copper looks great with beads too - my favorite color for copper is a greenish blue turquoise. Matches beautifully, probably due to the fact that copper's own corrosion is the same color. It also goes well with various greens and oranges. And of course I've used these metals all on their own or in mixture (Half Persian 4 in 1 looks bangin' with half of the rings one color and half another color).
So there you have it! Try them out - they are very inexpensive. You can also buy these metals by the pound. And let me tell ya, a pound of wire is A LOT of wire! Try mixing them (tri-color chains are always hot). Most of all, have fun and be creative. You'll have a lot of wire to use up...
I don't know how many of you have tried plated wire. Do you actually like working with it? I hate working with it. I have various reasons for this, the biggest being that it's just so easy to scratch or chip it. The second biggest reason is that I've yet to make a piece without tumble polishing it, and plated materials don't take kindly to this. And the plastic (or "enameled") wires are so slippery in my pliers I get fed up before I can finish anything. For these reasons I don't use it. Good thing for us there are solid metal alternatives that look great!
____________________
The look of gold...
My personal favorite for imitating the look of gold is red brass (also called rich low brass or jeweler's brass). Unlike it's name would imply, it's not red, but a true gold color. The alloys can range anywhere from 70% copper/30% zinc to 90% copper/10% zinc (I use 85%/15%). Not being a metalurgist, I can only assume that the higher the copper content, the "warmer" the color.
Please do not confuse jeweler's brass with yellow brass. While yellow brass has a "gold" color, to my eye it looks decidedly greenish. I still like it for some things, but if what you want is something that looks like real gold, stick with jeweler's brass.
Rose gold beautiful...
Copper is one of my favorite metals. It's nearly-pink color pleases my eye. I suppose that's why I love rose gold so much too. However, the two don't even come close in color. I guess you could fool someone that's not really familiar with rose gold, but when holding the two next to each other the differences become immediately apparent. Copper is so much darker and pinker. They are so different that I don't even worry about mistaking these two. But there is one type of wire I have to label so that I don't confuse it with my rose gold-filled wire...
On a whim one day (and because I love to experiment), I decided to try bronze wire. The wire I received (Alloy C510, a phosphor bronze) was a light rosey-orange color. Hmmm. When I grabbed my rose gold wire to compare I was simply amazed! It was a eureka moment. The difference was only oh-so-slight. They have the same tonal (or lightness) values. The bronze is just a smidgeon more to the orange, but without really good lighting, it's nearly impossible to tell them apart. I had found my fabulous rose gold "faker"!
Ah, silver...
I've had an incredibly hard time trying to replicate this metal. It's white color is nearly unsurpassed. Nickel silver doesn't cut it, not even a little bit. Stainless steel? Ah, nope. But there's one that's pretty close...
Bright Aluminum is exceptionally white. It's also nice and shiny - two things that describe silver. Silver has a slight "warmth" to it while bright aluminum is brilliant white and "cold" (I'm talking colors here folks, not temperature). The bright aluminum is the closest I've been able to find and yet stay inexpensive. But there is one BIG difference between the two, and that's weight. The same size gauge and amount of rings of bright aluminum probably weighs less than half of the same in sterling silver. For those familiar with the heft of a silver bracelet or necklace, there's no mistaking that that bright aluminum one that you just picked up is NOT silver. Unfortunately, that's the trade-off for this fake. Replicate the color and sacrifice the weight. It's either that or go with nickel silver which looks like gunmetal next to the real thing.
Strange that the "colorless" metal would be the hardest to mimic...
____________________
Now, there ARE drawbacks to not using real gold or silver. Of course there are, or we would never use them! The non-precious metals tend to tarnish. Bright aluminum is pretty resistant, but brass and bronze will darken over time. The trick to keeping them nice is frequent cleanings and polishings with a jewelry cloth and to keep in an airtight bag when not in use. A small amount of work for a bigger reward.
I'm not by any means bashing other metals. In fact I used them - nickel silver, yellow brass and copper (especially copper). For instance, yellow brass looks fantastic with peridot or olive colored beads; the color of the beads picks up the greenish cast of the brass in a good way. Yellow brass also looks great with brown or terra cotta colors as it gives a nice "earthy" look. Copper looks great with beads too - my favorite color for copper is a greenish blue turquoise. Matches beautifully, probably due to the fact that copper's own corrosion is the same color. It also goes well with various greens and oranges. And of course I've used these metals all on their own or in mixture (Half Persian 4 in 1 looks bangin' with half of the rings one color and half another color).
So there you have it! Try them out - they are very inexpensive. You can also buy these metals by the pound. And let me tell ya, a pound of wire is A LOT of wire! Try mixing them (tri-color chains are always hot). Most of all, have fun and be creative. You'll have a lot of wire to use up...
Monday, September 22, 2008
Understand Aspect Ratio
If you are going to do chainmaille, you must understand aspect ratio - the relationship between the inner diameter of your rings and the thickness (or gauge) of your wire. It does require math, but if you're like me and have no head for math, buy yourself a cheap calculator and you'll be off and running.
The easy way boils down to this formula:
ID (inner diameter) of your ring divided by WD (wire diameter) equals AR (aspect ratio).
It's sort of confusing at first, but it comes with just a little bit of practice.
Let's say that you have pattern directions for Jens Pind in 20 gauge wire and you'd like to do it in 18 gauge wire (all wire gauge measurements are in AWG unless otherwise noted). You know that the directions say 20 gauge rings with an inner diameter of 2.5mm. If you take 2.5mm and divide by .813 (mm decimal equivalent) you get 3.075 as your aspect ratio. To find the inner diameter for 18 gauge wire take this number (3.075) and multiply it by your new wire diameter (18g AWG is 1.02). You come up with an ID of 3.14mm. So the new ID of your new 18 gauge rings should be as close to 3.14 as possible (I usually round up, but you should always wind just a few and test them first - sometimes rounding down works better).
If you've seen charts for aspect ratios for common chainmaille weaves, you'll notice that there usually isn't just a set aspect ratio. There's usually an aspect ratio range. The low end of the range gives a tighter weave and the higher end a looser one: you can decide which you do according to your preference. For instance, the preferred AR for Jens Pind is 2.9, but you can go slightly looser but not too loose (too loose and this weave falls apart). Most weaves will lose the pattern if too loose and if too tight may make an inflexible chain or not be able to be woven at all. That's why you should always wind and cut just a few rings and test them before commiting yourself to winding up all your wire ;-). You can get a list of common weaves and their ID's for various gauge wire here. Just pick the metal you'll be using. Or get a chart of common chainmaille weave AR ranges here.
Common AWG Wire Gauge diameters:
(Note: the larger the number the thinner the wire)
22 gauge: .643mm or .0253 inches
20 gauge: .813mm or .0320 inches
18 gauge: 1.02mm or .0403 inches
16 gauge: 1.29mm or .0508 inches
14 gauge: 1.63mm or .0641 inches
If you know the diameter of the wire in decimal inch, take that number times 25.4 to get the mm diameter.
One more tip: if you find an ID for a certain pattern and wire diameter that you like, jot it down for later use.
"Edited September 24, 2008 - in response to Kelly's comment:
Kelly from Creative Catalyst Productions posted a comment about SmartFlix (be sure to read it). While I'm a fan of CCP (I own at least one of their DVD's) and because I'm sympathetic to what she's saying, I just wanted to make my own point. I mentioned that I rented Weaving Silver 1 & 2 by Spider. I actually DO plan to buy them now that I've seen them - it's always great to have something like that for reference. However, I would never buy then not having seen them first. Instructional DVD's are expensive and I've bought more than a few that I was utterly disappointed with and never watch. Bad camera angles, no closeups...all that together has either been a make or break for me as far as some DVD's go. To be able to see it FIRST is something that I appreciate. Kind of like using a software demo in a "try before you buy" deal. Before I invest that much money (some sets are well over $100) I'd like to see if it's worth it to me before I plunk down the cash. I do however understand where Kelly is coming from - I used to freelance in 3D graphics and it's a real dog-eat-dog business, but you take the good with the bad. Good thing is that it's mostly good :-).
Kelly has posted a link to the CCP website. I suggest you visit and take a look around. There are some very talented artists there. And if you are sure about what you are buying, by all means, give them your business. I, for one, am the more cautious type. 90% of the time I ultimately end up buying a dvd that I rent. But I'd like to know that I actually WANT it first.
The easy way boils down to this formula:
ID (inner diameter) of your ring divided by WD (wire diameter) equals AR (aspect ratio).
It's sort of confusing at first, but it comes with just a little bit of practice.
Let's say that you have pattern directions for Jens Pind in 20 gauge wire and you'd like to do it in 18 gauge wire (all wire gauge measurements are in AWG unless otherwise noted). You know that the directions say 20 gauge rings with an inner diameter of 2.5mm. If you take 2.5mm and divide by .813 (mm decimal equivalent) you get 3.075 as your aspect ratio. To find the inner diameter for 18 gauge wire take this number (3.075) and multiply it by your new wire diameter (18g AWG is 1.02). You come up with an ID of 3.14mm. So the new ID of your new 18 gauge rings should be as close to 3.14 as possible (I usually round up, but you should always wind just a few and test them first - sometimes rounding down works better).
If you've seen charts for aspect ratios for common chainmaille weaves, you'll notice that there usually isn't just a set aspect ratio. There's usually an aspect ratio range. The low end of the range gives a tighter weave and the higher end a looser one: you can decide which you do according to your preference. For instance, the preferred AR for Jens Pind is 2.9, but you can go slightly looser but not too loose (too loose and this weave falls apart). Most weaves will lose the pattern if too loose and if too tight may make an inflexible chain or not be able to be woven at all. That's why you should always wind and cut just a few rings and test them before commiting yourself to winding up all your wire ;-). You can get a list of common weaves and their ID's for various gauge wire here. Just pick the metal you'll be using. Or get a chart of common chainmaille weave AR ranges here.
Common AWG Wire Gauge diameters:
(Note: the larger the number the thinner the wire)
22 gauge: .643mm or .0253 inches
20 gauge: .813mm or .0320 inches
18 gauge: 1.02mm or .0403 inches
16 gauge: 1.29mm or .0508 inches
14 gauge: 1.63mm or .0641 inches
If you know the diameter of the wire in decimal inch, take that number times 25.4 to get the mm diameter.
One more tip: if you find an ID for a certain pattern and wire diameter that you like, jot it down for later use.
"Edited September 24, 2008 - in response to Kelly's comment:
Kelly from Creative Catalyst Productions posted a comment about SmartFlix (be sure to read it). While I'm a fan of CCP (I own at least one of their DVD's) and because I'm sympathetic to what she's saying, I just wanted to make my own point. I mentioned that I rented Weaving Silver 1 & 2 by Spider. I actually DO plan to buy them now that I've seen them - it's always great to have something like that for reference. However, I would never buy then not having seen them first. Instructional DVD's are expensive and I've bought more than a few that I was utterly disappointed with and never watch. Bad camera angles, no closeups...all that together has either been a make or break for me as far as some DVD's go. To be able to see it FIRST is something that I appreciate. Kind of like using a software demo in a "try before you buy" deal. Before I invest that much money (some sets are well over $100) I'd like to see if it's worth it to me before I plunk down the cash. I do however understand where Kelly is coming from - I used to freelance in 3D graphics and it's a real dog-eat-dog business, but you take the good with the bad. Good thing is that it's mostly good :-).
Kelly has posted a link to the CCP website. I suggest you visit and take a look around. There are some very talented artists there. And if you are sure about what you are buying, by all means, give them your business. I, for one, am the more cautious type. 90% of the time I ultimately end up buying a dvd that I rent. But I'd like to know that I actually WANT it first.
Thursday, September 4, 2008
Cleaning Copper, Silver and Brass
If you've ever had a problem cleaning your sterling silver, copper or brass creations, here's a quick and effective way:
Sterling Silver - some folks like the slightly tarnished look, but if you don't, or your silver is darkly tarnished, here's a quick way to remove it:
Take a small piece of aluminum foil large enough to fit the bottom of a heat resistant container (preferrably glass and not metal) such as a Pyrex measuring cup or pie plate. Pour a small pile of baking soda and lay your silver on top. Pour boiling water over the baking soda and silver jewelry being careful not to burn yourself. The baking soda will foam slightly. If you pay attention, you should smell a faint whiff of rotten eggs. When the water is cool enough to put your hand in, remove the jewelry and rinse thoroughly and give a quick bath by rubbing the jewelry between your palms with a little liquid hand soap. Rinse and dry. Your sterling will look like new!
Copper and Brass:
Copper and brass can be cleaned in much the same way. Give the jewelry item a quick dip in lemon juice with a pinch of salt. Don't soak for too long - a couple minutes should be sufficient. Remove the jewelry from the lemon juice and clean by rubbing the item briskly between your palms with a bit of liquid hand soap or dishwashing liquid. Dry thoroughly.
If you don't have lemon juice, even orange juice or white vinegar can be used, though they take a bit longer in my experience. I've even heard of folks using ketchup, though I've never tried this myself.
Maintenence:
For all three metals, a good polishing cloth like those used for silver polishing works great to keep your slightly tarnished jewelry looking beautiful and sparkling. When not in use, store your jewelry in a tightly closed plastic bag.
Sterling Silver - some folks like the slightly tarnished look, but if you don't, or your silver is darkly tarnished, here's a quick way to remove it:
Take a small piece of aluminum foil large enough to fit the bottom of a heat resistant container (preferrably glass and not metal) such as a Pyrex measuring cup or pie plate. Pour a small pile of baking soda and lay your silver on top. Pour boiling water over the baking soda and silver jewelry being careful not to burn yourself. The baking soda will foam slightly. If you pay attention, you should smell a faint whiff of rotten eggs. When the water is cool enough to put your hand in, remove the jewelry and rinse thoroughly and give a quick bath by rubbing the jewelry between your palms with a little liquid hand soap. Rinse and dry. Your sterling will look like new!
Copper and Brass:
Copper and brass can be cleaned in much the same way. Give the jewelry item a quick dip in lemon juice with a pinch of salt. Don't soak for too long - a couple minutes should be sufficient. Remove the jewelry from the lemon juice and clean by rubbing the item briskly between your palms with a bit of liquid hand soap or dishwashing liquid. Dry thoroughly.
If you don't have lemon juice, even orange juice or white vinegar can be used, though they take a bit longer in my experience. I've even heard of folks using ketchup, though I've never tried this myself.
Maintenence:
For all three metals, a good polishing cloth like those used for silver polishing works great to keep your slightly tarnished jewelry looking beautiful and sparkling. When not in use, store your jewelry in a tightly closed plastic bag.
Polishing and Burnishing
My first Tips posting will be on the importance of polishing your finished piece.
When you finish a piece of chainmaille jewelry, regardless of materials used, it probably needs a good polish to bring out the shine and beauty. For instance, when I create a piece of chainmaille, I use jump rings that I've hand-wound and hand-cut myself. Essentially, all my jewelry begins as nothing but wire. I then wind the wire into short coils which I then hand cut with a jeweler's saw one by one. It sounds time consuming and is, to a degree, unless you have a good, sharp saw blade and run the blade through a chunk of beeswax regularly. With that, you can cut through a 3" coil in a few minutes. A #2 blade seems to work best for most of my wire, no matter what it's made of.
Sawing in this way (and even with a jeweler's electric rotary saw) creates sharp edges on your rings that can catch on fabric or even skin. Throwing the jump rings into a tumbler filled with stainless steel shot for a few hours not only polishes the rings, but removes sharp burrs. When done, simply pour your tumbler contents into a wire sieve. I then pour them out onto a tea towel and spread them out into a thin layer. I pass a strong magnet over the layer to pick up the stainless steel shot. Most metals that you will be working with will not be magnetic - except for stainless steel rings. These will have to be picked out by hand. You should be okay with sterling or fine silver, gold or gold-filled, titanium, aluminum, nickel silver, copper, brass, bronze or any other non-ferrous metal that can be used to make jump rings. Take note that especially tiny rings can get caught between the shot, so look over what shot you've picked up to see if you have any jump rings in there before pulling off the shot and placing back in the container or bag you store it in.
After using the jump rings in a piece of finished jewelry, I place the finished piece back in the tumbler for another go-round. This is where some chainmaille artists opinions differ from my own.
Some say that just a few hours is all you need for a good shine. I've discovered (especially with copper) that a nice long spin does wonders. I tumble my chains overnight, as long as 12 hours. The finished chains come out gleaming and work-hardened. Contrary to the opinions of some, tumbling in stainless steel shot only burnishes - it does not remove any material from the piece. It can, however, slighty smooth-over fine details that you may want to keep, such as twisted wire. I would confine anything with twisted wire accents to only a few hours.
In summation, if you do any volume of chainmaille or jump rings, do yourself a favor and get yourself a rotary tumbler with a strong rubber barrel. They aren't very expensive and come in various sizes depending on your volume of useage. I myself use only stainless steel shot (plain steel shot rusts). What kind of shot depends on your preference. I use shot that contains elipticals, saucer shapes, round balls and pins. This seems to work best for me because it gets into every nook and cranny of the chain, even if I have to pick pins out of the chains now and then :-).
When you finish a piece of chainmaille jewelry, regardless of materials used, it probably needs a good polish to bring out the shine and beauty. For instance, when I create a piece of chainmaille, I use jump rings that I've hand-wound and hand-cut myself. Essentially, all my jewelry begins as nothing but wire. I then wind the wire into short coils which I then hand cut with a jeweler's saw one by one. It sounds time consuming and is, to a degree, unless you have a good, sharp saw blade and run the blade through a chunk of beeswax regularly. With that, you can cut through a 3" coil in a few minutes. A #2 blade seems to work best for most of my wire, no matter what it's made of.
Sawing in this way (and even with a jeweler's electric rotary saw) creates sharp edges on your rings that can catch on fabric or even skin. Throwing the jump rings into a tumbler filled with stainless steel shot for a few hours not only polishes the rings, but removes sharp burrs. When done, simply pour your tumbler contents into a wire sieve. I then pour them out onto a tea towel and spread them out into a thin layer. I pass a strong magnet over the layer to pick up the stainless steel shot. Most metals that you will be working with will not be magnetic - except for stainless steel rings. These will have to be picked out by hand. You should be okay with sterling or fine silver, gold or gold-filled, titanium, aluminum, nickel silver, copper, brass, bronze or any other non-ferrous metal that can be used to make jump rings. Take note that especially tiny rings can get caught between the shot, so look over what shot you've picked up to see if you have any jump rings in there before pulling off the shot and placing back in the container or bag you store it in.
After using the jump rings in a piece of finished jewelry, I place the finished piece back in the tumbler for another go-round. This is where some chainmaille artists opinions differ from my own.
Some say that just a few hours is all you need for a good shine. I've discovered (especially with copper) that a nice long spin does wonders. I tumble my chains overnight, as long as 12 hours. The finished chains come out gleaming and work-hardened. Contrary to the opinions of some, tumbling in stainless steel shot only burnishes - it does not remove any material from the piece. It can, however, slighty smooth-over fine details that you may want to keep, such as twisted wire. I would confine anything with twisted wire accents to only a few hours.
In summation, if you do any volume of chainmaille or jump rings, do yourself a favor and get yourself a rotary tumbler with a strong rubber barrel. They aren't very expensive and come in various sizes depending on your volume of useage. I myself use only stainless steel shot (plain steel shot rusts). What kind of shot depends on your preference. I use shot that contains elipticals, saucer shapes, round balls and pins. This seems to work best for me because it gets into every nook and cranny of the chain, even if I have to pick pins out of the chains now and then :-).
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